Overview

The Api Saipal trek is one of the most challenging and least-explored trekking routes in western Nepal, forming part of the Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) in the Far West region. This trek begins at the Mahakali River and concludes at the Karnali River in Humla, Simikot. It traverses two distinct mountain ranges: the Api Mountain Range, which stretches east from the Mahakali River to the Sati River, and the Saipal Mountain Range, extending east from the Sati River to the Humla Karnali River. The trek takes adventurers through remote and rugged landscapes, passing through the southern side of Api Himal and the northern side of Saipal Himal. Due to its remoteness, the region has seen very few tourists, with most GHT travelers stopping at Hilsa, missing the spectacular Api Saipal section. However, efforts are being made to promote this hidden gem. The trail begins at Sunsera, Mahakali, proceeding south of Api Himal, north of Surma Sarovar, and east of Urai Pass before reaching the north side of Saipal Mountain.

Section One: Api Himal Trek

The Api Himal trek is an isolated journey leading to the base camp of Api Himal, the tallest peak in the region at 7,132 meters. The trek starts from Makarighad in Darchula district and offers breathtaking views of peaks such as Kap Chuli (6,680 m), Nampa I, II, and III, Bobaya Chuli (6,808 m), and Jethi-Bahurani (6,850 m). Despite its stunning beauty, this trek remains relatively unknown, making it a unique cultural and natural experience.

Local folklore tells of a saint named Chamaliya who meditated at the base of Api Himal, where a spring emerged, forming the Chaulani River. Hindu mythology also ties the river’s origins to Lord Shiva, adding to the site's religious significance. Every year, during Shukla Purnima in the month of Shrawan, the Surma Bhawani festival takes place at Surma Sarovar, attracting devotees from Darchula, Bajhang, and nearby regions.

The trek provides an opportunity to interact with the indigenous Khas communities, such as the Bohara, Lothyal, and Khagare, who speak the Chhetri language and uphold unique cultural traditions. These communities traditionally wove their own clothing and adorned themselves with intricate jewelry. The journey also takes trekkers through fast-flowing rivers, the sacred Kalidhunga Lake, and pristine forests teeming with biodiversity. With its isolation and challenging terrain, the Api Himal trek remains an adventure suited for seasoned trekkers looking for a truly untouched Himalayan experience.

Section Two: Kalagar to Surma to Urai Base  (Surma Section )

This section takes trekkers deeper into remote and rugged landscapes, beginning from Chhitti Kalagar (Thadul) with options to conclude at Bijgada or continue toward Bire Odar-Surma-Nilkatti Passa-Urai Base (Fedi). The trail winds through pristine wilderness, remote villages, and breathtaking mountain scenery, offering an authentic off-the-beaten-path experience.

The journey passes through tranquil spots like Gaisera, Naya, and Chaurpani, culminating in an ascent to the Urai La Base Camp (4,524 meters). Camping under the vast Himalayan sky, trekkers experience solitude and stunning panoramic views. From Urai Base, one can either venture north to Saipal or return via Naya to Chainpur, Bajhang.

Section Three: Saipal North Side Trek

From Urai La Base Camp, the trek enters the northern face of Mount Saipal (7,031 meters), one of Nepal's most remote high-altitude trekking destinations. This section presents a true Himalayan expedition, crossing dramatic mountain passes, untouched valleys, and high-altitude terrain.

The journey begins with a steep climb to Chaupha Col (5,216 meters), offering incredible views of the surrounding peaks. A descent into Valley Camp follows, leading to Thado La (5,308 meters), a challenging yet rewarding experience in extreme altitudes. Continuing along rugged ridgelines, trekkers cross Khatri La Pass (5,332 meters) before arriving at Karan Taal (4,963 meters), a stunning glacial lake tucked within the Himalayas.

Descending from the high-altitude wilderness, the trail reaches the remote settlement of Chala before transitioning into the lower valleys. A scenic drive from Chala to Salli Khola provides a gradual shift from the isolated mountain landscapes to more accessible regions. A short trek to Chungsa Khola Camp offers a final taste of the serene wilderness before concluding the journey with a drive to Simikot, the gateway to Nepal’s Far West.

Conclusion

The Api Saipal trek is a physically demanding yet rewarding expedition that unveils some of Nepal’s most untouched and awe-inspiring landscapes. With towering mountain passes, dramatic ridgelines, and serene glacial lakes, this trek is a rare opportunity to experience the raw and untamed beauty of the Far West. For adventurers seeking solitude and an off-the-grid Himalayan experience, the Api Saipal trek is a journey like no other.

GHT Far West (Api Saipal Simikot Treks) – Full Itinerary

Day 1: Kathmandu to Dhangadhi (Flight - 1 hour) & Drive to Dadeldhura

• Travel: Morning flight from Kathmandu to Dhangadhi. After arrival, take a scenic drive to Dadeldhura.
• Accommodation: Hotel/Guesthouse in Dadeldhura.
• Highlights: The Terai lowlands transitioning to mid-hills and glimpses of the Far West's lush greenery.

Day 2: Dadeldhura to Darchula

• Travel: Early morning drive from Dadeldhura to Darchula, a remote border town with India.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse in Darchula.
• Highlights: Picturesque hills, local rural settlements, and Himalayan views.

Day 3: Darchula to Sunsera (Jeep Drive)

• Travel: A half-day drive through rugged terrain, reaching the village of Sunsera.
• Accommodation: Tea house/homestay.
• Highlights: Marvel at the breathtaking views of the Api Saipal range.

Day 4: Sunsera to Thisain

• Trek: Begin your trek from Sunsera to Thisain, passing through dense forests and charming villages.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Forest walks, wildlife sightings, and peaceful rural landscapes.

Day 5: Thisain to Phultiban

• Trek: Continue trekking through beautiful highland meadows and forests to reach Phultiban.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Expansive views of the Himalayas and untouched natural beauty.

Day 6: Phultiban to Siti

• Trek: Trek through alpine terrain to reach the remote village of Siti.
• Accommodation: Homestay/Camping.
• Highlights: Experience local culture and views of surrounding peaks.

Day 7: Siti to Simar

• Trek: A scenic day of trekking from Siti to the village of Simar.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Stunning vistas of the Api and Saipal mountains.

Day 8: Simar to Dhauli Odar

• Trek: Trek to Dhauli Odar, a lesser-explored destination nestled in the lap of the mountains.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Remote mountain beauty, alpine meadows, and wildlife.

Day 9: Dhauli Odar to Api Base Camp and Return to Dhauli Odar

• Trek: Full-day trek to Api Base Camp and return to Dhauli Odar.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Awe-inspiring views of Api Himal (7,132 m) and surrounding peaks.

Day 10: Dhauli Odar to Khaikot

• Trek: Descend to Khaikot, passing through serene forests and pasturelands.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Amazing flora and fauna along the trail.

Day 11: Khaikot to Thumti

• Trek: Continue trekking to Thumti, a small village in the region.
• Accommodation: Homestay/Camping.
• Highlights: Cultural encounters with locals, mountain views.

Day 12: Thumti to Chhitti

• Trek: A moderate trek to Chhitti village, traversing rivers and ridges.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Peaceful and scenic landscapes.

Day 13: Chhitti to Bire Odar

• Trek: Trek to Bire Odar through varied terrain, surrounded by wilderness.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Off-the-beaten-path adventure and mountain scenery.

Day 14: Bire Odar to Gaisera

• Trek: Continue the trek to Gaisera, a quiet, remote area.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Isolated landscapes and tranquility.

Day 15: Gaisera to Naya

• Trek: Trek to Naya, a village nestled in the heart of the mountains.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Stunning mountain views and remote village life.

Day 16: Naya to Chaurpani

• Trek: Hike from Naya to Chaurpani, a beautiful spot surrounded by nature.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Scenic beauty of the highlands and alpine wilderness.

Day 17: Chaurpani Phat to Camp on Ridge (After Dahachaur)

• Trek: A challenging trek to a camp on the ridge after Dahachaur.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Spectacular panoramic views and alpine adventures.

Day 18: Camp on Ridge to Urai La Base Camp

• Trek: Trek to the Urai La Base Camp at an altitude of 4,524 meters.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: High mountain passes and stunning Himalayan vistas.

Day 19: Urai La Base Camp to Valley Camp (Confluence of Khola) via Chaupha Col

• Trek: Cross the Chaupha Col (5,216 meters) and reach Valley Camp at the confluence of Khola.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: High-altitude trekking with awe-inspiring views of snow-covered peaks.

Day 20: Valley Camp to Thado La and Back

• Trek: Trek to Thado La (5,308 meters) and return to Valley Camp.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Extreme altitude trekking and stunning mountain scenery.

Day 21: Valley Camp to Rai Dungha (Near Phirankoph Khola)

• Trek: Trek to Rai Dungha near Phirankoph Khola via the ridge between Thado Khola and Syanbang Khola.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Ridge walks with captivating views of the mountains.

Day 22: Rai Dungha Camp to Karan Taal via Khatri La

• Trek: Cross Khatri La (5,332 meters) and reach Karan Taal at 4,963 meters.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Spectacular glacial lakes and high-altitude beauty.

Day 23: Karan Taal to Chala

• Trek: Descend to Chala, a remote and beautiful spot.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Remote wilderness and stunning scenery.

Day 24: Chala to Salli Khola Hotel

• Travel: A scenic drive from Chala to Salli Khola.
• Accommodation: Hotel.
• Highlights: Relax in comfort after days of trekking.

Day 25: Salli Khola Hotel to Chungsa Khola Camp

• Trek: A short trek from Salli Khola to Chungsa Khola Camp.
• Accommodation: Camping.
• Highlights: Peaceful riverside camp and natural beauty.

Day 26: Chala to Simikot

• Travel: Drive by jeep to Simikot, the gateway to the Far West.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse in Simikot.
• Highlights: Scenic drive through the Himalayas.

Day 27: Simikot to Nepalgunj

• Travel: Morning flight from Simikot to Nepalgunj.
• Accommodation: Hotel in Nepalgunj.
• Highlights: Rest and relax in Nepalgunj.

Day 28: Nepalgunj to Kathmandu

• Travel: Take a flight from Nepalgunj back to Kathmandu.
• Accommodation: Hotel in Kathmandu.
• Highlights: Return to the capital and relax.

This itinerary offers a deep exploration of the remote and beautiful Far West of Nepal, including the majestic Api Saipal range, high mountain passes, remote villages, and some of the least explored trekking areas in the Himalayas.

Permit :

First Section:  Mahakali Sunsera to Api bc and Chhiti  village- Kalagar   (Api Conservation + Api Rural Municipality )

Second Section  kalagar to Saipal chour - Urai Base  (Saipal Restricted area Permit )

Third Section: Urai  Base  toYari or Smikot  (Humla Permit )

Season :Sept to Oct  or March April May .

 # Referance Sourse

Itinerary

Reaching the Trek 
31st May  :  Flight from B'lore to Lucknow. Drive from Lucknow to Dhangadi by bus
01st June : Dhangadi to Chainpur by bus

Trek (co-ordinates specified in MUTM format)
02nd June : Jeep from Chainpur to Rupatoli. Trek Talkot to Sunapani ( 314E / 807 N / 2046 M)
03rd June : Sunapani to Kagarkoot ( 351 E / 887 N / 2264 M) via Binayak Nagna Bhanjyang ( 356 E / 872 N / 2968 M)  
04th June : Kagarkot to Camp at Meadows before Dhuli village (283 E / 927 N / 2087 M)
05th June : Camp at Meadows before Dhuli/Laphri village to Chauraphani Phat ( 239 N / 022 E / 2825 M)
06th June : Chauraphani Phat to camp on ridge after Dahachaur ( 166 E / 074 N / 3854 M)
07th June : Camp on ridge after Dahachaur to Urai la Base Camp ( 244 E / 176 N / 4524 M)
08th June : Urai La Base Camp to Valley Camp near the confluence of Khola originating from Chaupha Tuppa & Thado Khola ( 290 E / 203 N / 4494 M) via Chaupha Col ( 252 E / 200 N / 5216 M)
09th June : Valley Camp near the confluence of Khola originating from Chaupha Tuppa & Thado Khola to Thado La ( 252 E  239 E / 5308 M) & back
10th June : Valley Camp near the confluence of Khola originating from Chaupha Tuppa & Thado Khola to Rai Dungha ( 377 E / 156 N / 4005 M) near Phirankoph Khola via ridge between Thado Khola & Syanbang Khola ( 4465 M)
11th June : Rai Dungha camp to Karan Taal ( 460 E / 175 N / 4963 M) via Zimgang La (aka Toibun) ( 448 E / 186 N / 5332 M)
12th June : Karan Taal to Chala 
13th June : Chala to Salli Khola Hotel (632 E / 246 N / 2968 M)
14th June : Salli Khola Hotel to Chungsa Khola Camp ( 698 E / 338 N / 4114 M)
15th June : Chungsa Khola Camp to camp at mouth of Talung Khola ( 662 E / 489 N / 4267 M ) via Nyalu Lagna ( 683 E / 378 N / 5004 M)
16th June : Camp at mouth oof Talung Khola to Jang Village 
17th June : Jang Village to Sakya Khola Camp ( 638 E / 576 N / 4689 M)
18th June : Day trip from Sakya Khola to Lapche Bhanjyang ( 605 E / 690 N / 5029 M), 500M beyond Lolun Bhanjyang ( 589 E / 664 N / 4984 M) & an unnamed Pass ( 564 E / 666 N / 5112 M).  From Lolun Bhanjyang and the unnamed pass one can get good views of Kailash & Mansarovar.
19th June : Sakya Khola Camp to Chyolomyak Taal ( 557 E / 611 N / 5110 M) & back to hotel at Tumling (631 E / 480 N / 4138 M)
20th June : Tumling Hotel to Talung Khola Camp ( 771 E / 489 N / 4578 M)
21st June : Talung Khola Camp to basecamp after crossing the pass ( 884 E / 442 N / 4960 M ).  Pass (5461 M) is marked as Pt 5448 on map
22nd June : Base camp after pass to Lare Khola Camp ( 008 E / 326 N / 3911 M)
23rd June : Lare Khola Camp to Raling Hotel at Chyagru via Dojam

Return from Trek
24th June : Chyagru to Kharpunath trek (2058 M) / Jeep to Simikot / Flight to Nepalgunj / Bus to Delhi
25th - 27th June : Train Delhi to B'lore

Photos from the Trek : Far Western Nepal (Bajhang to Humla) Trek Album- June 2018

References
See the links : Sacred Landscape Initiative (interesting site) & A Humla Journey
Nepal Road Distance Map
Exploration in Far Western Nepal : Darchula (Api Himal trail) to Bajhang (Urai La trail)
Far Western Nepal : Bajura/ Khaptad to Humla and Mugu Trek

Online

•  Roger Nix's Travel Blog on Far West Nepal - Oct 2015 
•  Document Based on Roger's Blog with his photos embedded
• Latombe's 2017 Trek
• Maps of Nepal from a blogger collecting topo maps of the world

Maps

Topo Maps of Nepal (1:50000)

 

Phase 1 : from Chainpur/Talkot to Urai La

 2981_05 Chainpur (Bajhang) / 2981_06 Talkot / 2981_02 Saingau / 2981_01 Chetti /

For trek from  Urai La to Simikot and Limi Valley

3081_14 Hilsa / 2981_03 ChyaChaur / 3081_15 Muchu /3081_11 Takchhe / 3081_12 Chanwathan /   / 3081_16 Chauganphaya / 3082_13 Chanla Bhanjyang / 3082_09 Chanla Himal

 

GPS Waypoints from the trek : XLS File 
Google Earth file with Maps and Waypoints embedded : KMZ File

Participants : Sathya V
 

Summary : This is a very remote trek across  Bajhang and Humla Districts in Far Western Nepal, exploring the remote corners of Humla district, & a few border passes from Humla to Tibet. This is a journey across 4 high altitude passes ( Chaupha Col, Zimgang La aka Toibun, Nyalu La, Pt 5448 pass ), exploration of 4 passes leading to Tibet ( Thado La, Lapche La , Lolun Bhanjyan & an unnamed pass), a couple of beautiful high altitude glacial lakes (Karan Tal, Chhyolomyok Tal), several valleys ( Seti Nadi, Thado Khola, Phirankoph Khola, Syanban Khola, Karan Khola, Chungsa Khola, Talun Khola, Sakya Khola, Chyakpolun Khla, Nin Khola, Chuwa Khola) and majestic mountain vistas ( Phirankoph Chuli, North Saipal, Chang-la  Himal).  In this season, this is a walk along with goat/sheep herders and yak herders. For the devout this trek offers great views of the holy Mt Kailash and Mansarovar lake from Lolun Bhanjyang and an unnamed pass.  For the wildlife enthusiast, there are hundreds, if not thousands of kiangs (tibetan wild asses), in the plains stretching beyond Takchche to the Tibetan borders & when these gallop in unison they are a sight to behold.

 

Remoteness

- Beyond Laphri (Bajhang) on the Urai la trail, till one reaches Chala (Humla District) there are no villages (7 days). During the yarsagumba season, like in June, one may find temporary hotels on Urai La trail.  In June, one may find goat/sheep herders/yak herders en route.

- From Salli Khola hotel to Takchche (Limi Valley) (2-3 days), one will not find any villages, but may find yak herders en route.  

- Beyond Takchche towards Tibetan border again one does not find anybody. (2-3 days)

- Again beyond Takchche, as one crosses to Nyin Khola/Chuwa Khola Valleys till one reaches Dojam (4 days), one will not find anybody , but may find several yak herders en route.

 

Fuel (petrol/kerosene/gas) is not available aywhere en route and has to be carried from the start of the trek.  In Limi Valley, one does not get dal (only rice).  However, the silver lining is that you will get a lot of dairy items (milk/butter milk/curd/cheese (aka churpi)) from the yak herders on the trail, in this season. 

 

Given the remoteness of the trail one has to be self-sufficient on this trail. 

Route Info

 

Bajhang (Talkot to Urai la Base Camp)

The trek starts from the roadhead at Talkot/Rupatoli & follows the Seti Nadi  along the Urai La trail for the first 6 days till one reaches Urai La Base camp.  The trail crosses the villages of Sunpani, Kuwa, Dhalaun, Bajchauka, Kaya till one reaches the last village of Laphri/Dhuli and is on the true left of Seti Nadi till its confluence with the Syanban Khola. Enroute after Dhalaun (which has some homestays) one crosses the ridge of Binayak Nagna Bhanjyang and then descends onto Kagarkot (which also has a couple of rudimentary homestays).  From Kagarkot, the trail descends to the Seti Nadi and then ascends to the villages of Bajchauka (which has a hotel), and then descends again to a couple of grazing grounds an hour before Laphri.  From Laphri the trail ascends again and descends to Syanban khola, where it crosses a bridge. After crossing the bridge at Syanban Khola, there are the beautiful meadows at Chauraphani Phat, a nice camping site.  From Chauraphani Phat one continues eastwards along the true left of the Seti Nadi, often contouring high above it, crossing a temple and reaching Naya Odar, where there is a bridge across the Seti Nadi leading to a route from Nilkhatti Khal (see this). From Naya Odar the route continues onto Dahachaur, the confluence of Seti Nadi with Gaisar Khola.  From Dahachaur the route continues northwards along a valley that is narrow intially and then broadens out towards Graphu Odar.  From Graphu Odar the trail contours onto the meadows at Saipal, at its confluence with the Raksha Urai Khola.  Here one has to cross the side stream originating from Karka Lek and continue along Seti Nadi to another meadow (locally known) as Khalanga.  During Yarsagumba season at Syanbang Khola, Naya Odar, Dhachaur, near Graphu Odar and Khalanga one can find temporary hotels.  From Khalanga, it is a steep ascent along the sides of a glacial moraine to the base of the Urai La.

 

Bajhang (Urai la Base Camp to Thado Khola via Chaupa Col)

From  Urai La base camp the route to Chaupa Col is not very clear.  The route is along the Salukhane Khola, which was a dry nala.  The route is covered with boulders and shale.    One can also go along the dry bed of the Khola but the last 150M or so would then have to be a scramble on loose shale. So, I stayed on the slopes on true right (i.e left of the valley as we climb up) of the khola and climbed well above the height of the pass on the slopes and then descended onto the pass, thus avoiding loose shale as much as possible.  The pass is the lowest point on the ridge between Chaupha Tuppa (5506 M) and pt 5456 (as marked on the map) and is marked by cairns.  From the ~5200M pass, the descent is onto a boulder field.  Try to keep to the left of the boulder field (to avoid too  much boulder hopping) followed by a short sharp descent to the stream originating from Chaupa Tuppa.  Continue following this stream keeping to its true left initially.  After a short walk, cross over to the true right of the stream to descend the ridge into the valley.  There is no clear trail.  The descent is in the direction of the "red/pink" stone/rock face on the valley facing you.  If one tries to descend on the ridge, on the true left of the khola, one encounters steep rock faces, waterfalls where one will not be able to descend (as I discovered).  After the descent follow the khola downstream till its confluence with Thado Khola.  Here there are beautiful campsites.

 

Bajhang (Thado Khola to Thado La)

From the campsite at the confluence, walk upstream in a north westerly direction, along the true left (i.e cross the valley to its right) of the Thado Khola.  There is a shepherd's trail here.  It is a ~4 hour walking distance to Thado La (~5308 M).  As one reaches an altitude of ~5000 M one needs to head north along the side stream feeding into the Thado khola (instead of following the khola further north west).  During the ascent to Thado La one would have to traverse a boulder zone, where the trail is not well marked.Thado La is the lowest point on the ridge between the points 5510 and point 5482 (as marked on the map) and is indicated by stone cairns/prayer flags on the ground.  From Thado La one can get good views into Tibet.

 

 

Bajhang/Humla Border (Thado la to RaiDhunga)

From the camp at the confluence one can follow the Thado Khola downstream keeping to its true right.  There is a well marked shepherd's/foot trail that should be clearly visible.  To get onto it, cross the khola at the confluence onto its true right and ascend onto the trail.  The trail contours high above the Thado Khola.  One will have to cross a few side streams feeding into the Thado Khola till one reaches a small shepherd's bridge (wood and stones) across the Thado Khola.  During the yarsa gumpa season (like in this trek) one can spot a few yarsa gumpa tents here.  This is a good place to camp.  From this log bridge/campsite there is a spur that has to be crossed to get into the Syanbang Khola.  The climb is about 600M and is very steep.   After getting atop the first spur (marked by cairn), there is a perilous looking narrow trail (one slip/misstep here looks fatal - as it is a 200M slide to the khola at the bottom) which one has to cross to traverse across to reach the top of the 2nd and 3rd spurs marked by cairns.  From the top of the 3rd spur, marked by cairns, it is another steep descent on loose rock to reach the Syanbang Khola.  From the top of the 3rd spur one can see the Syan Taal. There are campsites on the true right of the Syanbang Khola.  However, cross over to the true left using a shepherd's bridge (stone and rocks) towards the Phirankoph Chula and there are huge meadows there.  This campsite, locally is known as Raidunga.  These meadows have a lot of shepherd encampments and there is good clean water here.  These shepherds are from Limi Valley as this grazing region belongs to Humla.  The Thado Khola valley grazing region belongs to Bajhang.  The water of the Syanbang Khola looked brown and did not seem potable.  One can get beautiful views of the Phirankoph Chuli from this camping site.  It takes about 3 hours to cross the spur and there is no water in between so it is advisable to take water from the Thado Khola campsite before crossing this steep spur.

 

 

Bajhang/Humla Border (RaiDhunga to Chala/Salle via Zimgang La/Toibun)

From the campsite at Raidunga, one heads north along the Syangbang Khola and then turn in a north-easterly direction along the first major Khola.  There is no clear trail here but one just needs to follow this khola, initially on its true right and after a short distance crossing over to its true left.  There is another clearly marked trail that heads along the Syanbang Khola, that is frequently used by locals coming from Limi to Raidunga, which leads to Yansi Gumpa.  The route continues along a north easterly direction on the true left of the khola.  The initial narrow valley broadens out and the route then heads in a south-easterly direction along the khola to the Zimgang/Toibun La.  The approach to Toibun/Zimgang is along a fairly gentle ascent and the last 100M or so is along a faint trail across a rock/boulder strewn face.  There is a trail for mules here, but is not easily discernible.  If one misses the trail, like I did, one will end up climbing/clamberig over avoidable and dangerous rock faces to the Zimgang LA /Toibun pass (5332 M), which is marked as Pt 5310 on the map.  The pass is marked by cairns/prayer flags.  The descent is in a south-easterly direction towards a khola, along loose rocks.  After a 350M descent is a beautiful glacial lake called Karan Taal. It is a nice place to camp.  From Karang Taal one follows the Karang Khola.  There is a hardly discernible trail along the central ridge as one descends along the khola. Descending from any other ridge on the right/left seems dangerous.  There are great views of the North Saipal Glacier and Saipal as one descends to Karan Khola.  The route follows along the true left of the Karan Khola.  In season, it is possible to see yak herders, from Chala village, enroute at Thang Chobu (local name).  From Thang Chobhu the route descends to Karan Khola in an easterly direction and ascends again in a north-easterly direction, toward the confluence of the Karan Khola with Kolunba Khola (flowing from the direction of Chala), crossing a ridge and then descending in a northerly direction, crossing a bridge over a side stream/khola before the final steep and arduous ascent to the village of Chala.  From Chala there is a well laid out trail that passes by the school at Chala to the village of Salli Khola, which has 2 hotels.  The track contours the side of a ridge high above Kwalunwa Khola, and then descends to a bridge over Humla Karnali.  After a slight ascent after crossing the steel bridge, one can follow the road (in a downstream direction of Karnali) which leads to another steel bridge over Salli Khola, which one crosses to reach the hotel at Salli.  From Chala to Salli Hotel takes about 3-4 hours.  There is also a clear trail from Chala to Yansi gumpa (via Muchu) which takes about 2 days and crosses 2 passes (Syakup Lek & Garsa Lagna).  If one wants to continue eastward to Simikot there is another well laid out Kucha road that takes one across Chote Lek to Simikot or if one wants to continue Southwards one can cross Sakya Lagna.

 

 

Humla (Salle to Limi Valley (Takchche) via Nyalu La)

From Salli Hotel, there are 2 routes to Limi Valley.  One goes clockwise, upstream following the Humla Karnali, through Yalbang,Yangar, Muchu, Tumkot & Yari villages across Nara La to Hilsa and then into the Limi Valley villages of Til, Halji and Jang. You can see the description of that route here. The other route starts behind the Salli Hotel, and continues on the true left of the Salli Khola for about an hour, till one reaches a wooden bridge across Salli Khola.  Across the bridge the route follows the kuchha road, which was still not in use this year, till one reaches a meadow in another hour and a half (about 2.5-3 hrs from Salli Hotel) where one can find several yak herders from Kermi Village.  The route continues along the road on the true right of Salli Khola, till it reaches a spot of confluence with Takchi Khola , Chungsa Khola and Tep Khola, where there is a meadow called Shinjungma Kharka, which has some shepherd encampment.  There is a small wooden bridge across Chungsa Khola near this junction, and the trail then follows the Chungsa Khola in a northerly direction, till one reaches Chungsa Kharka, where there are numerous shepherd encampments and even a temporary hotel.  These yak herders both in Chugsa Kharka and Shinjungma are from Yalbang.  From Chungsa Kharka the route ascends about 400M to a beautiful lake called Selima Daha and then another 600M to Nyalu Lagna, marked by cairns and prayer flags. From Nyalu lagna, it is a steep descent to Chumgo Khola.  The route continues northwards along the true right of Chumgo Khola and onto Talung Khola.  There are a few shepherd encampments along Talung Khola and numerous campsites along it.  The road is on the true right of the Talung khola and after a short distance continues on the true left of it towards Takchche.  The old route continues on the true right of the Talung Khola.  At the mouth of the Talung river, it spreads out it looks like an green turqoise lake.  Near the mouth the Talung River is the confluence of another khola (let us call it Nyalu Khola as it flows from Nyalu Lek), forcefully flowing from the east, with distinct milky white turbid water.  As per the map there was supposed to be a bridge across this Nyalu khola, slightly upstream.  However, as I later got to know, the bridge has been washed away for some years.  So, one has to cross Nyalu khola near its confluence with the Talung river, where the khola spreads out and flows with lesser intensity.  Once across the white river sands, one can cross follow the trail and cross the Takchche khola over a wooden or a metal bridge to reach Takchche along a well laid out kachcha road.  The trip from Chungsa Kharka to Takchche can be done in one long day.

 

Humla Tibetan Passes Exploration (Takchche to Lolun/Lapche Bhanjyang and Chyolomyok Tal)

From Takchche, there is a kuchcha road leading to the Tibetan border pass of Lolun Bhanjyang.  The route is along this road.   However, there is a shorter initial ascent from Takchche on the old foot trail, instead of following the road.  The trail crosses the Sakya khola, which has beautiful campsites, Gyau Khola and continues along Chyakpolun Khola.  The unending stretch of grasslands, along the road/trail feels like you are already in the Tibetan plateau, especially with the sightings of hundreds of kiangs.  There are 3 passes in an arc from near the head of Chyakpolun Khola, spanning from Lapche Bhanjyang in the north, to Lolun Bhanjyang in the north west to another unnamed pass to the west. Lapche Bhanjyang (5029 M), is marked by stone cairns and the border pillar no. 15 as per the Sino Nepal agreement of 1965 (here).  One has great views of the Tibetan plains from the border.  The Lolun Bhanjyang (~4980 M) has a road running through it which leads onto the holy Mansarovar lake and Mount Kailash on the Tibetan Side.  Both Mount Kailash and Mansarovar are clearly visible from both Lolun Bhanjyang and the unnamed pass (5112 M).

If one goes along the Gyau Khola and then we head in the north westerly direction, along a side stream feeding into the Gyau Khola, one gets to the Chyolomyak Taal, a beautiful turqoise blue glacial lake at an altitude of ~5100M, that is larger than Gokyo lake (IMHO), set amidst spectacular surroundings.  From Sakya khola it takes about 4 hours to reach this lake.  Walking another couple of kilometres from the glacial lake would lead us to another pass leading into Tibet.

 

Eastern Humla Exploration (Takchche to Dojam via Chanla pass and Nin/Chuwa Khola)

From Takchche, one has to head across the Takchche khola bridge, to Nyalu Khola (the khola with milky white turbid water that flows from the east to confluence with Talun Khola/River near its mouth) and follow it on a well marked track on its true right.  It is a 450M climb on a ridge adjoining the gushing Nyalu Khola.  After the climb one is surprised to see huge meadows. It is impossible to image such huge meadows when one sees the terrain while doing the climb.  The Nyalu Khola is also well spread out in the plains here that it seems like a river with white sand banks.  The track goes to its true right hugging the mountain side.  One has to stay close to the mountain side track to avoid the marshes.  It takes a whole day to get to reach a basecamp of the pass.  The   trail is well marked with cairns at locations en route.  There are a couple of yak herderencampments, of villagers from Til, Halji (Limi Valley)  also enroute.  From the basecamp one can get good views of the various snow clad peaks of the Nyalu Lek.  From the basecamp it is a 400M steep climb to the top of a ridge, marked by cairns, along the true right of a stream cascading from the east into the Nyalu Khola. This ascent is followed by a gntler 200M ascent to the pass, over a boulder zone.  The track here is to the true right of the stream (that often flows beneath the boulders) originating from the pass (5461 M), marked as pt 5448 on the map. Since this pass cuts across the Chan la Himal let us call this pass Chan La Pass.  From the pass one gets astounding views of the entire range of the Chandi Himal to the east and north east.  This to me is one of the highlights of the trek.  It is a 400M descent towards the east to the basecamp after crossing the Chan La pass.  There are good views of the glacial moraine on one's right (to the south south-east).  The track is along the true left of the khola originating from the pass and flowing in an east/north-easterly direction to its confluence with the Nin Khola.  Near the confluence, one crosses the khola to head downstream along the Nin Khola on its true right.  At places, like near the confluence, the Nin Khola spreads out and is like a shallow lake and is inviting to cross over to the other side, where one can see huge cairns.  But, there is no need to cross the Nin Khola.  One can continue downstream on its true right till its  confluence with the Chuwa Khola, called Sumna.  There are many yak herder encampments, of the villages of Dojam enroute.  There is a route to Chan La Bhajyang, a pass into Tibet, upstream along the Chuwa Khola.  One can continue downstream along a well laid out trail on the true right of the Chuwa Khola.  There is a shepherd's bridge across the Chuwa Khola between the Lachama Khola on Chuwa Khola's true left and Lare Khola on Chuwa Khola's true right.  This can be used if one is planning to head to Chan La Bhanjyang.  There are numerous yak herder/shepherd encampments at Lare Khola of the Dojam villagers and it is a beautiful camping site. From Lare Khola one can continue on the true right of the Chuwa Khola crossing to its true left over the wooden bridge ahead of Ghatte Khola. Crossing on the 2nd metal bridge is to be avoided and one can cross back to the true right of Chuwa Khola over the wooden bridge near Namul Khola and continue to the village of Dojam.  From Dojam one can continue on the true right of the Chuwa Khola through the village of Ghyagru, which has a rudimentary hotel and place to stay, to Kharpunath, from where one can get a jeep to Simikot.  From Kharpunath it is also possible to head south to to Mugu (see here).

 

Other Route Exploration Options

- There is a well used trail from RaiDhunga to Yansi Gumpa, which is not marked in the 50K maps of Pahar.in, which can be taken to reach the Limi Valley

- Locals coming from Humla to Bajhang go from Yansi gumpa via Chima La (known by another local name) into Tibet and back to Bajhang via Urai la to the hotel at Khalanga (during season).  Non-locals may need a permit or have to check locally the presence/absence of Chinese officials near Urai La.  Some intrepid trekkers have done this route.

- Going to Chanla Bhanjyang from the confluence of Nin Khola & Chuwa Khola.